We generally think of our hair in terms of curl type, thickness and length. However, these external factors are only part of our manes’ overall health.  When you gasp what is going on with our strands internally, we can better tend to our hair and watch it reap all of the benefits.

When I first started my hair journey, I could not understand why my hair was constantly dry. No matter how much moisturizing balms or butters I slathered through my strands, my hair was still dry and brittle and now weighed with product buildup.

The entire game changed when I learned about hair porosity. After discovering I had hair with low porosity,  the products I used and how I used them changed. I immediately saw a change in my hair. My hair was finally moisturized with less breakage. Therefore more growth! Wooo!

In this article you will learn exactly what is hair porosity? How to test hair porosity for yourself and the best practices and products for your hair. 

What is Hair Porosity?

Hair porosity measures how well your hair is able to absorb and hold moisture. 

Porosity is determined by the  hair cuticle, the outer most layer of the hair strand. The cuticle controls how easily moisture and oils pass in and out of the hair. 

Imagine the hair cuticles as shillings on a roof top. They lay on top of each other, over lapping to protect the strand and give it strength. The cuticles open up to receive moisture inside the strand, then closes in order to hold the moisture within. 

Porosity is not only important for moisture but for the hair to maintain color as well. It is important for those cuticles to be able to close. Therefore a smooth closed cuticle is important to maintain the integrity of the hair.

For most, hair porosity is genetic but it can be affected by over exposure to heat treatments and chemical processing leaving hair damaged with overly open cuticles and porous hair.

Knowing your hair’s porosity can help you choose the right products and regimen to maintain your hair’s overall health. Use the test below to determine your hair porosity. 

Hair Porosity Test

The Float Test

Take a few strands from a comb or brush and place them in a glass of room temperature water. Let sit for 2-4 minutes. If your hair floats, you have low porosity. If it sinks, high porosity.

The Slide Test

Take a strand of hair and slide your thumb and index fingers up the shaft (towards the scalp) if you feel little bumps along the way, your cuticles are lifted and that is high porosity. If your fingers slip smoothly, you have low porosity.

Low Porosity 

Hair with low porosity has cuticles that are tightly bounded with overlapping scales that lay flat. 

Frizz is not a major issue for hair with low porosity. Hair usually has a healthy shine as the flat cuticles reflect light off the strands. 

However, low porosity repels water making it harder to undergo hair treatments and processes since it resists penetration of moisture and chemicals. 

Low porosity hair is prone to build up from products and protein rich deep conditioners, leaving the hair feeling stiff and straw like. 

It is important for those with low porosity hair to learn how to open up their cuticles to receive products, while using products that contain smaller penetrating molecules that may easily pass through the strands.

Products:

Low hair porosity products include Gentle shampoos that will lift your cuticle just enough to get moisture in.

Look for products with balanced pH level. Products which are too alkaline will result in frizzy hair that will become porous. 

Acid hair products will make cuticles even more tightly closed keeping out much needed moisture to the strands. Hair will then lose elasticity and become prone to breakage. 

Use heat with a protein free deep conditioner to help open the cuticles to get nutrients and moisture into the strands.

Opt for light weight daily conditioners with humectants such as glycerin or honey that will attract water and easily penetrate hair.

Follow up with an emollient such as a light oil or butter to seal moisture in.

Normal Porosity 

Hair with normal porosity often requires the least amount of maintenance. The cuticle layer is looser, allowing moisture to enter the strand while preventing it from escaping. 

Normal porosity hair tends to holds styles well and can be chemically processed with predictable results 

However, use caution as chemicals and heat as it can damage your hair and increase its porosity.

Products 

Occasional [deep conditioning with proteins] can benefit normal porosity hair. Although it should not be included in your daily regimen as to prevent build up. 

High Porosity 

Hair with high porosity hair is usually the result of chemical processing, rough treatment, heat or environmental damage.

Appearing and feeling dry as it loses product moisture as quickly as it absorbs.

High porosity hair has gaps and holes within the cuticle layer. These gaps allows in too much moisture into the hair, leaving it prone to frizz and tangling in humid weather.

Products:

It os very important to limit the chemical processes and exposure to heated curlers and straighteners. Try heat free styling with tools like Flexi rods. 

Balanced ph levels are important as well. Acid products will work to close the cuticles to allow the proper moisture in and hold it rather than having it pass through the hair.

An apple cider vinegar rinse is perfect to expel pollutants in the hair that have made their way through the porous strands. 

Deep conditioning masks with protein will help fill in gaps in the strand and provide strength.

Use an anti-humectant products in climates with high heat and humidity. This will ensure sealed cuticles that prevent absorption of excess moisture in the air. 

Use daily leave in conditioners as high porosity hair also loses moisture easily and layer with a heavier butter that will help hair hold on to moisture and protect hair. 

Conclusion 

Now that we’ve covered the different types of porosity, you can complete the hair porosity test yourself and determine the level of our hair’s porosity. Once you understand your porosity you can move forward knowing the hair care regimen and products your hair require to main it’s overall health.

What are some of your favorite products or practices for your hair porosity?